Dhondt-Grellet makes some of the finest Champagne from the Cote de Blancs. With stunningly pure, radiant expressions of their chalky terroir, it is no surprise why the wines of Adrien Dhondt are the darlings of media and collectors alike. Adrien Dhondt took over the family holdings in 2012, which include plots in the Grand Cru of Cramant, and has been steadily increasing quality ever since. He has taken big steps in the vineyard (the trellising is higher for greater shading and canopy management, algae is used for mildew protection) and in the cellar with an upgraded barrel program, so to say the wines have never been better is an understatement. Truly, his labor are finally coming to bear fruits in the form of Champagne with more dimension and precision, and we are so thrilled to offer this selection today. From top to bottom, the wines are outstanding and worthy of your consideration.
Disgorged in June 2021, the NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Les Terres Fines (2018) offers up aromas of ripe citrus fruit, green apple, fresh bread, peach and toasted nuts. Full-bodied, ample and vinous, it's fleshy and generous, with lively acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse. Seamless and complete, it concludes with chalky grip.
The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Les Terres Fines offers a striking expression of Chardonnay from Cuis. Smoke slate crushed rocks white pepper and lemon confit are all vivid in this striking wonderfully nuanced Champagne. Dosage of just two grams per liter is expertly judged in a Blanc de Blancs that really sizzles with energy. This release is 70% 2016 and 30% perpetual reserve going back to 1986. Disgorged: December 2018.
Disgorged in June 2021 the NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Les Terres Fines (2018) offers up aromas of ripe citrus fruit green apple fresh bread peach and toasted nuts. Full-bodied ample and vinous it's fleshy and generous with lively acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse. Seamless and complete it concludes with chalky grip. In Issue 250 End of August 2020 I devoted an in-depth article to Adrien Dhondt's Champagnes so I'll refer readers looking for more information on his methods and different cuvées to that piece. On this most recent visit I tasted Dhondt's recently disgorged releases which will be arriving on the market as this report goes to press. His cuvées based on the 2018 vintage are especially fleshy and demonstrative and this stands out as the most gourmand immediate set of NV wines he has released to date. Their upfront appeal means that I'm tempted to suggest readers approach them before the 2017s which are showing more depth and structure than they did late last year as they settle down on cork. Both are terrific vintages for Dhondt even if they're cut from quite different stylistic cloth.