Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2020

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Producer	Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils
Country	France
Region	Burgundy
Subregion	Cote de Beaune
Varietal	Pinot Noir
Vintage	2020
Sku	28302
Size	750ml

 

WA

90

It’s impossible to discuss Chassagne-Montrachet without mentioning the name Bernard Moreau. Year to year, this celebrated producer vinifies and bottles some of the purest, most thought-provoking wines of the appellation. Employing a style of wine making that might best be described as hands-off, Alex Moreau produces Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are sensual, opulent and utterly delicious.

"The 2020 Chassagne rouge old vine bottling comes in at an even thirteen percent octane in this vintage and is beautifully sappy and black fruity in personality. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of cassis, sweet blackberries, bitter chocolate, woodsmoke, pigeon, dark soil tones and a whisper of oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and nicely soil-driven in personality, with a sappy core of fruit, suave tannins and a long, complex and well-balanced finish. Fine juice." (Drink between 2030-2065) - John Gilman (11/2021)

Bursting with aromas of cherries, berries, violets, plums and dark chocolate, the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with powdery tannins and a crunchy core of fruit. The 2020 vintage has turned out brilliantly at Domaine Bernard Moreau—but what's new? Alex Moreau readied his harvesters promptly, as it takes eight days to pick the whole domaine, and began on August 20th. Yields were good, and the cellar is full (which is not the case in 2021), with alcohols moderate, the highest being 13.4%. As usual, the fruit is crushed before pressing (which lasts up to three and a half hours), briefly settled and barreled down (François Frères is the predominant cooper here) for vinification with plenty of lees, Moreau doing nothing to discourage quite protracted fermentations, which he finds build texture and complexity into the wines. For my palate, the results are some of the finest white wines produced on the Côte de Beaune, and they occupy a prominent place in my personal cellar. The market is certainly taking notice, and prices are rising fast, but readers won't want to miss the 2020s. (WK)  (1/2022)